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Showing posts from 2023

Wild camping on the beach in Portugal. Microadventure

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Last night, we had a wonderful microadventure on the beach, just a 25 minute walk away from our home. We pitched our tent on the soft sand, listening to the soothing sound of the waves. We felt like we were traveling, even though we were close to our familiar surroundings. The only downside was a group of noisy drunk youngsters who interrupted our peaceful sleep for a while. But a serene sunset and a radiant sunrise over the ocean compensated for that nuisance. The colors of the sky and the water were breathtaking.

Sunrise walk. Setúbal. November 2023

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In the quiet hours before dawn, I find solace by the ocean, a refuge from the relentless tide of news. A gentle fog rolls in from the depths, draping the world in a milky shroud. As I step into this ethereal mist, it wraps around me, lending an air of enigma to the waking town. Moments flicker by — ephemeral and fleeting, leaving behind no echo of their passing. Fishing boats glide through the gossamer haze, only to be swallowed by the infinite embrace of the ocean. A solitary figure on a bicycle materializes along the shore, then fades into the misty void. There are no bitter feelings, no lingering memories — only the pure essence of the present, a singular moment in time.

A foggy hike from Quinta do Anjo to Setúbal. Autumn mushroom hunting. Portugal

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Distance 14 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 340 m, Elevation loss 400 m As dawn broke over Setúbal, a thick fog enveloped the hills of Palmela, hinting at the enchantment that lay ahead. One of us was filled with wonder, imagining the magic that awaited, while the other braced for a day shrouded in moisture. Both expectations were met with equal measure. Upon alighting in Quinta do Anjo, we were greeted by the village’s cobbled streets, covered in a delicate dance of heavy droplets suspended in the air. The path took us to ancient prehistoric graves standing solemnly amidst the mist, exuding an enigmatic aura. These caves, carved around 3500 BC, served as final resting places for over a thousand years, bridging the Stone and Metal ages. They once held precious items — weapons, jewelry, pottery, and idols — offering a glimpse into the lives and beliefs of those who were buried here. Unfortunately, in the 19th century some of the stones were extracted for construction leaving a scar on th

Mushroom hunting. Setúbal. Portugal

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For quite some time, I had lost the spark of adventure and the thirst for exploration. I had grown hesitant and indecisive, even in simple things like venturing out into nature and following hidden paths. But yesterday, something stirred in me. I felt a sudden urge to face the unknown and savor freedom again. It was a short walk in the nearby forest, our first mushroom hunt of the season. We had two young energetic couchsurfers staying with us. When I told them we were going to look for wild mushroom spots, their eyes sparkled. “Finally, we’ll learn how to forage for our food when we camp!” — they exclaimed. There were a few hardly visible trails in the woods that I had noticed before but never got around to tracing them. We waded through thick undergrowth and thorny vines, until we reached a clearing where oily brown caps glistened under the pine needles and grass. Gradually making our way across the dense greenery, we filled the bags with Slippery Jack fungi, a delicious treat.

4-day Terceira itinerary. Day 4. Rocha do Chambre, Queijada da Dona Amélia and a sweet shepherd dog

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Day 4 Before our boots touched Terceira’s soil, we sought our host’s advice on the island’s best hikes. Without any hesitation, she suggested Alagoa da Fajãzinha ( Baías da Agualva ) and Rocha do Chambre . We decided to hike to Rocha do Chambre on our last day, despite the cloudy and humid weather. We grabbed some sandwiches, put on waterproof socks and trail runners, and headed for an adventure. Little did we know how tough a challenge that would be! We definitely don’t recommend this trail after rainfall, as it can be quite risky. Not as dangerous as Arbel mountain in Israel , but still unwise. The trail was circular and could be walked either clockwise or counterclockwise. We chose the latter, following numbered signs. Our journey began gently — a flat dirt road, volcanic formations, and a valley adorned with green peaks. Then the trail climbed up to 700 meters and we reached the Miradouro da Rocha do Chambre , the highlight of the hike. In front of us stood a colossal cliff

4-day Terceira itinerary. Day 3. Local fruits and skinny dipping

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Day 3 On that day, the weather decided to show its wet and windy face, which forced us to stay indoors or almost indoors. During the morning drizzle, we ventured out into the garden to forage for some local fruits. We found tiny sweet strawberry guavas, which are widespread in the Azores. They would serve as our only dessert if we didn’t get an opportunity to join our host for breakfast again in the local bakery. That time we opted for a cheesecake as compensation for the gray gloomy weather. And it was not simply delicious, it was divine! The rest of the morning and early afternoon we spent in the house of our hosts waiting for the rain to stop or at least pause. As soon as it happened, one of us braved the wet slippery roads and walked down to the natural pools. This time, she chose the secluded ones with not a human soul around but with colorful rainha fish in the water. It was a lovely wild place for skinny dipping against a backdrop of the roaring stormy ocean. >>>

4-day Terceira itinerary. Day 2. Monte Brasil, casa de pasto and a vocal class

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Day 2 Our host kindly offered to drive us to Angra do Heroismo on her way to work. We left the house at eight, armed with sandwiches, fruits, and water, for a long hike on Monte Brasil . This extinct volcano dominates the landscape of the city, and offers spectacular views of the bay and the ocean. She dropped us off at a viewpoint called Miradouro do Pico das Cruzinhas. The sun was just rising, and everything around us was sparkling with golden light. We could see the whole city below us, with its colorful houses and churches. From there, we followed the trail to all the peaks of Monte Brasil, discovering its natural and historical treasures. We walked around an emerald-green caldera of an ancient dormant volcano. Along the forest path we noticed a family of timid deer who ran away as soon as they saw us. We climbed up to a whale lookout, where a sign informed us of all the marine life that can be spotted around the island. We scanned the horizon, hoping to catch a glimpse of a blue