Posts

Dark and light sides of Mindelo. Cabo Verde. Spring 2025.

Image
We arrived in Mindelo on February 27th, a few days before the carnival frenzy would hit the city. Since hitchhiking in Cabo Verde was still a bit of a mystery to us, we decided to take a taxi from the Cesária Évora airport, which cost 1200 escudos. The studio, actually a garage converted into an apartment, that we rented for our entire stay was located in the quiet residential area of Madeiralzinho. The first thing the landlady told us after handing over the keys was, “Be careful, there's a lot of movement now”. “It's carnival time”, she added. Over the next few days we would find out what she meant. The city was chaotic and crowded in anticipation of the festivities. The main streets were lined with ticketed stands for spectators willing to pay between 1000 and 2000 escudos for an evening show. On the opposite side, all kinds of seating - plastic chairs, wooden stools, boxes, benches - sprouted up, reserved and negotiated through street fixers, adding a layer of unofficial co...

From Pico da Cruz to Ribeira de Janela. Santo Antão, Cabo Verde. Spring 2025

Image
A day of hitchhiking and a completely unexpected hike Distance 8.5 km (gpx) . Elevation gain 58 m. Elevation loss 1549 m What was supposed to be a laid-back day quickly took a hard turn—much like that time in Horten, when we ended up climbing with a cotton tote bag . In Santo Antão, our day—a twin brother to its Norwegian counterpart—once again turned into an impromptu hiking adventure. At least this time we were better prepared: armed with walking sticks and a stash of tuna cans to keep us going. That morning, our tired muscles were begging for a break, so we promised ourselves no hiking for at least 24 hours. Instead, hitchhiking seemed like a fun alternative—a chance to see more of the island's majestic mountains and perhaps meet some interesting locals. Still, we packed our usual gear—hiking poles, hats, and sunscreen—just in case we ended up on foot again. From Ribeira da Torre, we strolled over to Ribeira Grande and picked a strategic spot on the winding road to Pico da C...

Solo hikes to Gótxód waterfall. Santo Antão, Cabo Verde. Spring 2025

Image
Cavouco Cosco, Ribeira da Torre - Xôxô - Gótxód Waterfall - Rabo Curto - Melícia Distance 11 km (gpx) . Elevation gain 646 m. Elevation loss 518 m That morning, I set out alone into the Ribeira da Torre valley as the first rays of sunlight gilded the mountain ridges. The paved road wound like a ribbon along the valley floor, leading me to Xôxô ([Shosho])—a place as serene as its soft, whispering name suggests. It was Sunday, which meant that only rare cars disturbed the silence, leaving the soundtrack to trickling water and the occasional " bom dia " from local joggers. The lushness of Xôxô struck me: pools glinting under the rising sun, reservoirs overflowing, and levadas threading through the landscape. The constant murmur of the streams guided me towards the Gótxód waterfall. The real challenge began at one of the water tanks, where the trail steeply went up. Then it dropped sharply into the next valley before climbing back up to terraces with dizzying vistas. A dist...