Collecting Moments

Microadventures are my favorite way of wandering. Recently we were staying on a farm deep in the countryside of central Portugal. One day we needed to go to the nearest town for some urban chores and meet-ups. We had two choices: either wait till our friends could take us there by car or walk eleven kilometers through orchards and fields. We eagerly opted for the latter. In a short while we found ourselves in front of the river — the cold and fast Mondego. When we were there in winter, the current was so strong that it could easily knock us off our feet and carry us into the Atlantic Ocean. Now, in April the snow had already melted in the mountains of Serra da Estrela, Mondego calmed down and didn't look so intimidating. We ventured to cross it over huge boulders that fortunately turned out to be flat but not slippery. After taking a few steps and dipping our feet in chilly water, we joyfully got to the other side. From there, our hike was just pure bliss in the bucolic landscap...

Distance 20.75 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 611 m, Elevation loss 618 m This hike took us into the pristine unspoilt heart of the land of Arrábida. Nature embraced us and showed us her slightly spiky side. The day started with geometrically-lined picturesque vineyards of Azeitão. Stray goats were trimming fancy cypress-tree fences of neat-looking wineries on the way to their pasture. Since we hit the road early, the sun was still low and gentle. Its rays delicately painted in gold the gracefully curved trunks of cork oaks. As we entered the forest, cobwebs were still hanging between the branches on both sides of the route, tickling our skin as we passed. During the ascent to Formosinho we walked up along a river of stones with gravel desperately wobbling under our feet. Closer to the peak the trail turned into a bald steep path on the slope. Our feeling of imminent fall was immediately offset by breathtaking views of hills and valleys painted in all shades of green. As we climbed to ...

История одного колодца Терракотовая пыль летит из-под ног. Земля красная, раскаленная под полуденным солнцем. В глазах рябит, колесницы взлетают в небо. Путь дальний, жажда создает миражи. В глубине под землей — спасительный ледяной источник. На темном дне — чистая прозрачная вода. В голове постепенно проясняется, становится тише. Передохну и побреду дальше до широкой реки… Две тысячи лет назад римляне проложили здесь дорогу, а рядом с ней построили колодец. Закрыли его от дождя и листьев арочным сводом из камней. Украсили витиеватыми ракушками из океана. В них и сегодня как будто звучит вечный плеск прибоя. Рядом выросло дерево с плотными листьями, пьющее из того же источника. Оно обнимает древний колодец своими крепкими ветвями. Совсем недавно в жаркие месяцы у него собирались фермеры. Вытягивали ведро с водой и наполняли ею глиняные кружки. Из ручной колонки с шумом вырывалась студеная струя. "Механизм современный, а вода римская", — смеется хозяйка усадьбы. Она и поз...

Distance 22.5 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 448 m, Elevation loss 448 m Like the last time , this hike started with the old Roman road. Calçada Romana will probably be the gateway to our weekly nature getaways from Setúbal. We crossed the EN10 road from Grelhal, turned left and stopped at the gate with a formidable warning ”Private property. Keep out". That Saturday we were not the only ones wanting to get in. There were workers with a huge truck waiting for a machine to level the dirt road. You can enter, no problem, they nodded at us. It turned out the gate was not locked, and soon we found ourselves between pine trees following a trail up to the chapel. We quickly realized it was Via Crucis because every turn was marked by a cross with a station number. Now please bear with me while I briefly explain the currently sad state of hiking in Setúbal. As you may know, the city borders the natural park of Arrábida. If you look at the map, the green area to the west is criss-crossed wit...