Trip 2015-16. Day 328. Myanmar, Hsipaw - Taunggyi
A local of Nawnghkio:
“This road is dangerous, not peaceful. Some towns are closed to foreigners.”
We still insisted on hitchhiking out of town southwards.
“So you see this road on your map? It's rare used. Only by the army and private trucks. No taxis, no buses.” - said another senior resident of Nawnghkio when he saw us trying to hitch.
“We want a truck then.”
“Wait a minute, I'll try to get you a truck”.
Ten minutes after we were driving in a motorbike taxi (paid by that man) to the offices of an Indian transportation company owned by his friend. The owners and workers were gathered there waiting for the next lorry. We decided to share the huge watermelon gifted to us by our previous hitch driver. Soon a girl appeared speaking good English and explained to us that we could reach a village half way to Taunggyi (our destination) with a truck and then continue the next day. We were introduced to the truck driver and his wife and told they would offer us somewhere to sleep and ensure we had ongoing transport south.
“This road is dangerous, not peaceful. Some towns are closed to foreigners.”
We still insisted on hitchhiking out of town southwards.
“So you see this road on your map? It's rare used. Only by the army and private trucks. No taxis, no buses.” - said another senior resident of Nawnghkio when he saw us trying to hitch.
“We want a truck then.”
“Wait a minute, I'll try to get you a truck”.
Ten minutes after we were driving in a motorbike taxi (paid by that man) to the offices of an Indian transportation company owned by his friend. The owners and workers were gathered there waiting for the next lorry. We decided to share the huge watermelon gifted to us by our previous hitch driver. Soon a girl appeared speaking good English and explained to us that we could reach a village half way to Taunggyi (our destination) with a truck and then continue the next day. We were introduced to the truck driver and his wife and told they would offer us somewhere to sleep and ensure we had ongoing transport south.
We waited a while for the truck that then moved to other locations in the village to pick up cement, fertilizer, chicken food and a motorcycle. We were offered a seat in the cab compared to others who stayed the entire journey in the back.
We set off into the sunset on a single lane road, pausing when traffic came towards us. The road deteriorated as we headed towards a steep decline into a gorge. By now it was dark and we faced many tight bends with steep drops. Our long truck came very close to the edge at times. Our driver pointed out where a vehicle had fallen over the side, some parts were still visible on the slope. Upon reaching the lowest point of the gorge at a bridge we realized there was a long queue of trucks slowly ascending the other side. We also saw that the road was being repaired by only the light of torches. We spent the next two hours gradually ascending while waiting for trucks in front, as we witnessed almost medieval methods of building.
We fell asleep as the journey continued for three more hours before reaching the village where the driver and his wife lived. We were invited to spend the night in the cab of the truck, while other passengers slept in the open rear.
We were awoken by the driver's wife at 6am, she brought some warm sticky rice with sugar for breakfast and pointed to a minibus waiting behind the truck. We questioned the cost and she seemed to suggest it had been covered. Half way to Taunggyi though the bus driver asked for 18000 kyats ($15). After suggesting we alight, the price dropped by half and we were taken to our final destination of the capital of Shan State. We arrived to Taunggyi after a day of hitchhiking which started with a drive from Hsipaw in just another truck...
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