Circular hike from Celorico da Beira to Ribeiro de Salgueirais. Freezing water dip. Portugal

Distance 16.1 km (gpx), Elevation gain 411 m, Elevation loss 413 m

This hike is dedicated to water, its primordial power and ultimate calmness. It's about the roaring sound of hidden waterfalls and the gentle whisper of streams meandering through valleys.

Water usually returns to this land in late autumn after a summer drought. In winter riverbeds are full and deep, and currents are strong and fast. They draw their power from the snow-capped mountains of Serra da Estrela.

As part of this journey we pass a tiny village of Mourela where an old woman greets us in the street. We always find her lingering at a sunny spot near the porch of her house. Her face is lined with deep wrinkles like the earth thirsty for rain. Her smile is soft and her eyes are shining. When the woman sees us marching with our hiking poles along a cobbled alley, she looks surprised. Very few people get to this place at all, not to mention foreigners. The other day there was a younger local lady there who remarked, laughing, “This is a wrong direction. You need to go that way to a different village, there is a cafe there.”

But we don't need hot coffee, we are dreaming of chilly waters of the stream. We will follow its winding path until we reach our secret pool amidst the rapids. There, one of us will lie on a smooth rock catching the sunrays, while the other will plunge into the icy water. Don't think it ever warms up much, but in May those dips become lengthier and more pleasant than in February.

After spending a while sipping tea from a thermos and listening to the murmur of the creek we move on. This trail has been historically used by local shepherds, and sheep are the most common hikers we encounter here. We wait for the herd to pass, dogs cautiously following. The shepherd also suggests we take a different route. Not because of a chance to socialize like in the cafe, but since it's his land and he knows a place with better views elsewhere. We thank him but leave it for another day and keep on strolling along the stream. We climb down to check out our favorite magical spot — a cascade creating swirling pools. This enchanting corner never disappoints. We stop for a few moments and listen to the soothing music of the water, an ever-changing natural melody played just for us.

We are reluctant to leave this place but we have to carry on. Along the way we pass a few rundown deserted houses for sale. Their abandoned gardens bloom lavishly in spring. It's serene and quiet, no sound reaches our ears except for the flow of wee creeks that feed the trees. In the last part of this hike the trail splits with one branch going up the hills and the other down into the valley towards Vila Boa do Mondego. We love both. On the former you encounter two secluded streams that meet on their way to a large river. On the latter you drink refreshing water from the fountain and approach that grand river called Mondego. Eventually it's all about water, its unstoppable force and absolute tranquility.