Collecting Moments

If Denmark is about flat fields then Southern Sweden is definitely about lakes. Whether it's Vänern, the largest lake in the EU, or a tiny Södra Kypesjön in the town of Borås, there's always a body of freshwater somewhere near you! Surprisingly, they do not swim naked in Sweden (not even topless), it is much more conservative than Germany in this regard. That is despite Sweden topping the charts as one of the most secular and liberal countries in the world. Almost always we had to cover ourselves in those wet clothes called "bathing suits". Even on Södra Kypesjön where red-faced red-skinned ladies and gentlemen jumped naked from the sauna into the chilly water, I had to swim in those sticky rags. But other than that annoying nuisance, lake dipping in Sweden had been a wonderful experience throughout our whole journey. The water was usually warm enough to enjoy a long relaxing swim and the surrounding nature was enchanting. And, of course, we found a fair bit of se...

Here's the gist of our hitchhiking journey from Copenhagen to Uppsala in June 2023. In hitchhiking communities Sweden (along with other Scandinavian countries) is often described as a paradise for thumbing. We'd say it's a bit more difficult than Iceland but hey, at least the weather is nicer. You don't stand out there feeling miserable under a pissing rain and a freezing wind at seven degrees Celsius in July trying to hitch a ride out of Reykjavik airport. However, we must admit that this particular summer in Sweden was abnormally warm, dry, sunny and overall pleasant. There are also some things about Swedes that we learned from our couchsurfing hosts. This secret knowledge might come in handy if you are planning to hit the road in this country. Firstly, they need a lot of time to make a decision so you'd better be visible from afar. Secondly, they like watching American horror movies where every hitchhiker is a murderer. Just try to look innocent, that's all...

День в Копенгагене. Июнь 2023 Знойный июньский полдень в Копенгагене. Жители города высыпали на улицу и уютно расселись с шампанским и закусками вдоль каналов. Потягивая игристое, толпа веселилась, махала проплывающим мимо моторным лодкам и комментировала навыки неопытных рулевых-туристов. Звон бокалов сливался с громким смехом и радостными возгласами. Вдруг на противоположной стороне канала мы заметили голую женщину. Она сидела на деревянном настиле, окруженная модно одетыми людьми, и как будто не замечала своей наготы. У нее были азиатские черты лица и белоснежная кожа. Ее светлая фигура резко выделялась на фоне серых досок, будто выхваченная лучом софита. Женщина встала, быстро проскользнула мимо загорающих парней в шортах и прыгнула в воду. Нырнула, проплыла вдоль набережной, несколько раз акробатически перекувыркнулась под водой и зацепилась рукой за лесенку для купальщиков. Поныряла еще несколько минут вокруг нее, потом вылезла из воды и спокойно и уверенно прошагала обратно н...

Distance 16.1 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 411 m, Elevation loss 413 m This hike is dedicated to water, its primordial power and ultimate calmness. It's about the roaring sound of hidden waterfalls and the gentle whisper of streams meandering through valleys. Water usually returns to this land in late autumn after a summer drought. In winter riverbeds are full and deep, and currents are strong and fast. They draw their power from the snow-capped mountains of Serra da Estrela. As part of this journey we pass a tiny village of Mourela where an old woman greets us in the street. We always find her lingering at a sunny spot near the porch of her house. Her face is lined with deep wrinkles like the earth thirsty for rain. Her smile is soft and her eyes are shining. When the woman sees us marching with our hiking poles along a cobbled alley, she looks surprised. Very few people get to this place at all, not to mention foreigners. The other day there was a younger local lady there who r...

Microadventures are my favorite way of wandering. Recently we were staying on a farm deep in the countryside of central Portugal. One day we needed to go to the nearest town for some urban chores and meet-ups. We had two choices: either wait till our friends could take us there by car or walk eleven kilometers through orchards and fields. We eagerly opted for the latter. In a short while we found ourselves in front of the river — the cold and fast Mondego. When we were there in winter, the current was so strong that it could easily knock us off our feet and carry us into the Atlantic Ocean. Now, in April the snow had already melted in the mountains of Serra da Estrela, Mondego calmed down and didn't look so intimidating. We ventured to cross it over huge boulders that fortunately turned out to be flat but not slippery. After taking a few steps and dipping our feet in chilly water, we joyfully got to the other side. From there, our hike was just pure bliss in the bucolic landscap...

Distance 20.75 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 611 m, Elevation loss 618 m This hike took us into the pristine unspoilt heart of the land of Arrábida. Nature embraced us and showed us her slightly spiky side. The day started with geometrically-lined picturesque vineyards of Azeitão. Stray goats were trimming fancy cypress-tree fences of neat-looking wineries on the way to their pasture. Since we hit the road early, the sun was still low and gentle. Its rays delicately painted in gold the gracefully curved trunks of cork oaks. As we entered the forest, cobwebs were still hanging between the branches on both sides of the route, tickling our skin as we passed. During the ascent to Formosinho we walked up along a river of stones with gravel desperately wobbling under our feet. Closer to the peak the trail turned into a bald steep path on the slope. Our feeling of imminent fall was immediately offset by breathtaking views of hills and valleys painted in all shades of green. As we climbed to ...

История одного колодца Терракотовая пыль летит из-под ног. Земля красная, раскаленная под полуденным солнцем. В глазах рябит, колесницы взлетают в небо. Путь дальний, жажда создает миражи. В глубине под землей — спасительный ледяной источник. На темном дне — чистая прозрачная вода. В голове постепенно проясняется, становится тише. Передохну и побреду дальше до широкой реки… Две тысячи лет назад римляне проложили здесь дорогу, а рядом с ней построили колодец. Закрыли его от дождя и листьев арочным сводом из камней. Украсили витиеватыми ракушками из океана. В них и сегодня как будто звучит вечный плеск прибоя. Рядом выросло дерево с плотными листьями, пьющее из того же источника. Оно обнимает древний колодец своими крепкими ветвями. Совсем недавно в жаркие месяцы у него собирались фермеры. Вытягивали ведро с водой и наполняли ею глиняные кружки. Из ручной колонки с шумом вырывалась студеная струя. "Механизм современный, а вода римская", — смеется хозяйка усадьбы. Она и поз...