4-day Terceira itinerary. Day 4. Rocha do Chambre, Queijada da Dona Amélia and a sweet shepherd dog

Day 4

Before our boots touched Terceira’s soil, we sought our host’s advice on the island’s best hikes. Without any hesitation, she suggested Alagoa da Fajãzinha (Baías da Agualva) and Rocha do Chambre. We decided to hike to Rocha do Chambre on our last day, despite the cloudy and humid weather. We grabbed some sandwiches, put on waterproof socks and trail runners, and headed for an adventure. Little did we know how tough a challenge that would be! We definitely don’t recommend this trail after rainfall, as it can be quite risky. Not as dangerous as Arbel mountain in Israel, but still unwise.

The trail was circular and could be walked either clockwise or counterclockwise. We chose the latter, following numbered signs. Our journey began gently — a flat dirt road, volcanic formations, and a valley adorned with green peaks. Then the trail climbed up to 700 meters and we reached the Miradouro da Rocha do Chambre, the highlight of the hike. In front of us stood a colossal cliff on the edge of a large volcano. Within its embrace lay a pristine endemic forest, a soft green carpet unfurling. Dark clouds were approaching, so we hurried on.

A 300-meter descent awaited and that’s when the real challenge started. The trail was steep and narrow, sometimes flooded, sometimes treacherously slick. We had to avoid the muddy puddles by walking on slippery edges, clinging on to the vegetation. Sometimes the trail turned into a stream, and we had to find a way around it. Luckily, the steepest stretch had stairs and ropes that helped us a lot.

The reward was the splatter of hidden waterfalls and small creeks. And the sight of the moss-covered trees immersed in water. We got back to the trailhead four hours later, tired and dirty. We couldn’t believe it took us so long to hike 9 kilometers, but it was worth it for the moist emerald beauty.

From there our amazing host picked us up and whisked us away to a whirlwind tour of the island’s most emblematic spots. We savored our picnic lunch at Lagoa das Patas, surrounded by curious ducks and cheeky chickens that tried to snatch our food. Then we drove up into the clouds to Miradouro da Serra de Santa Bárbara - the pinnacle of Terceira with the view expanding into a vast, panoramic canvas. Within minutes, the sun surrendered to a chilly drizzle, urging us back to our car. Miradouro da Ponta do Queimado beckoned next — a rugged outpost where volcanic cliffs met crashing waves. As our last day on the island unfolded, we couldn’t miss the chance to try the most famous and intriguing dessert of Terceira and stopped at Ti Choa, a local restaurant. We already heard our hosts talking about Queijada da Dona Amélia, a regal cupcake named after a Portuguese queen who visited the island in 1901. The pastry was originally called "Bolo das Índias" and it evoked the exotic spices and aromas of the incense trade routes. With a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg, this dessert was unlike any other Portuguese sweet. Terceira, we decided, felt and tasted like a different country altogether. We also sampled a traditional honey liquor that warmed us up and lifted our spirits.

The sun came out again and we headed to Serra do Cume, where we were greeted by a mesmerizing view of patchwork quilts with valleys and craters. We continued to the village where our host’s parents lived and met their adorable puppy. It was one of those priceless moments that we treasure in our travels, more than any tourist attractions. The flavors, the trails, the chance encounters - they all wove together into a splendid finale for our brief but unforgettable trip.