Gran Canaria 2024. Sleeping in the airport. Unexpected Airbnb experience. Bandama volcano hike.

Our winter adventure started with a night at the Las Palmas de Gran Canaria airport, where we planned to stay after arriving late. We had slept there once before, in March 2019, when we snuggled on the cozy benches of a friendly cafe. This time, however, we faced a different challenge: the airport was supposed to close from midnight to 4 AM, and everyone had to vacate the premises. The information clerk hinted that the security guards might turn a blind eye and let us stay, but we couldn’t be sure. We spotted some homeless people who looked like they had made the airport their nightly shelter. They were not bothered by the closing hours, and seemed to enjoy the meager comfort of the place. We realized luck was on our side, when we heard that a flight to Fuerteventura was canceled due to strong winds. The airport staff was busy dealing with the frustrated passengers, and we were left to find our own spot. Unfortunately, the only seats available were the hard chairs of a closed bistro. We settled for them, and tried to get some sleep.

We left the airport after a restless night and headed to Telde, where our Airbnb room awaited us. We always prefer to stay with locals through platforms like BeWelcome, Trustroots and Couchsurfing, but this time we had no luck in Gran Canaria. We had to book a paid accommodation, but it was far from ideal. The building was in a socially disadvantaged area; garbage and dog poop were everywhere on the sidewalks, and a nauseating stale smell hung in the hallways of the apartment block. The flat was no better: old, dusty and infested with roaches. It was a stark contrast to the idyllic image of the Canary islands that tourists usually see. But for us it was just another reminder that behind the facade of paradise, there was a real world with real people and real problems. That’s what we usually encounter thanks to the hospitality exchange sites but without having to pay for such experience.

We craved some fresh air and the next morning we set off for a hike in the Bandama volcano. We caught the bus in Las Palmas as the sun was rising, and enjoyed the scenic ride up the green hills along a narrow winding road. The bus stop on the top was just a stone’s throw away from the trailhead (open every day from 8:00 to 17:00).

The path plunged 200 meters into the caldera, weaving through aloe and cactus plants. The crater of this dormant volcano had a mysterious and surreal aura of absolute tranquility. It felt like the worst was over and nature was in a deep and peaceful slumber. It was a sensation of eternal bliss, without any danger or fear. Nothing could disturb this atmosphere of utter calmness. At the bottom of the crater we stumbled upon an abandoned winery and a citrus garden, but sadly without any fruits. It was a perfect day of harmony with nature. A magical travel day where everything fell into place. And to top it off, we hitched a ride with three friendly locals. Hitchhiking always gives us a sense of freedom and restores our faith in humanity.

Here you can find our whole hiking route: down to the bottom of the caldera and along the rim of the crater. Distance 7.5 km. Elevation gain 490 m.