Hiking the GR131 on Lanzarote. From Orzola to Uga

Day 1. Orzola - Ermita de las Nieves

Distance 18 km, Elevation gain 900 m, Elevation loss 300 m, Camping spot 29°06′23.59″N, 13°31′41.26″W

The morning weather forecast warned us of a fierce wind that would soon sweep the island. Gusts up to 70 km/hr. We didn't hesitate. We packed our bags and set off from Orzola around 8:30. The weather was still ideal for hiking, with a cool haze that softened the sun. We walked along the road, marveled by the contrast between the dormant volcanoes and the restless ocean. We soon left the asphalt behind and entered the trails that wound between the elegant wineries and the modest orchards in the black soil. We felt the presence of the mighty Corona volcano and her smaller kin, our silent guardians. The air was arid like in the desert but tinged with salt.

We reached Haria and took a short break. We refilled our bottles with tap water in the Centro Cultural and chilled under the shade of the towering trees in the boulevard. (Side note: we brought all our camping gear to Lanzarote, hoping to cook some couscous on our miniature gas stove. But fate had other plans. The Decathlon in Arrecife ran out of small camping gas cartridges. It came as an unpleasant surprise because we had always succeeded in finding gas on other islands, like Tenerife and Mallorca. We had no choice but to cold soak our couscous and add some tuna for protein.) In Haria, we bought a can of tuna from a small Chinese-run supermarket, probably the most expensive one of the whole trip. The minimercados on Lanzarote were quite pricey and we steered clear of them whenever we could. We longed to stay for a night in that charming quiet town or at least linger there for longer, but we had to press on and find a place to camp.

We left the town and faced a steep climb of 300 meters. Halfway up, we stopped for a break on a shady terrace and admired the stunning views of the valley and the ever-present volcanoes. As we reached the top, we felt the wind picking up - the yellow warning in the forecast was spot on! The wind lashed our faces and was so violent that it almost swept us off the road. We knew we had to find a sheltered place for the night or else we’d be blown away into the Atlantic ocean along with our precious MSR tent. The trail wound between the fields and we eagerly spotted a tiny house that could offer us some protection from the wind if we pitched the tent close to its wall. Luckily, not far from there, we noticed a viewpoint with a chapel (Ermita de las Nieves). One of us went to check it out and came back with good news - there were several sheltered places in the churchyard. We rushed to move our things there, but were mere minutes too late as some day trippers had just used the best spot as a toilet. We had to opt for the second best and pitch the tent against the outer wall of the yard under a palm tree. It was not ideal, but still better than in the field. For dinner, we choked down our bland meal: couscous with tuna, and washed it down with cold water. Then we gratefully retreated to our tent. Although it was a splendidly bright full moon night, it was far from peaceful. The only sound we could hear throughout the night was the howling wind. Until the morning, our tent convulsively danced under the ferocious gusts. We were glad, however, to have this opportunity to experience the untamed power of nature.

Day 2. Ermita de las Nieves - Montaña Blanca

Distance 18 km, Elevation gain 270 m, Elevation loss 615 m, Camping spot 28°59′15.04″N, 13°37′37.47″W

We awoke to a splendid sunrise. The palm trees were swaying against a colorful canopy in the sky. It was a wonderful painting but to make it look sharp on the pictures we had to lean against the wall. The wind was relentless. We hurried to pack our tent before it flew away, then had our modest breakfast: corn tortillas with paté. As we descended the hill, we noticed the wind becoming gentler. We crossed several dry barrancos and made our way to the town of Teguise. It was a stark contrast to the tranquil nature we had left behind. The town was noisy and crowded with tourists. The old center was full of souvenir shops and restaurants with English menus. The only public toilet was closed, which the local ladies said was unusual. We filled our bottles in a small cafe and bought some supplies in the Suma supermarket.

The climb to San Bartolomé that followed was arid and dusty. We trekked through a desert-like landscape with yellow sand and scanty shrubs. The volcanoes towered over the horizon. We paused briefly at the entrance to San Bartolomé to refill our bottles at the “Lolita” bakery and resumed our journey. Leaving the paved roads behind, we passed two craters that resembled the humps of a giant camel. The outskirts of the town were bleak, with abandoned buildings dotting the area. The trail curved around the grandiose Monataña de Guadisea and followed it for another kilometer. As we searched for a place to camp, we spotted an old underground water cistern on a hill above the path. We climbed up, found a flat spot, cleared it from broken glass and pitched our tent. It was only sheltered from one side, but the wind had calmed down and there was no sign of trouble in the forecast. We had cold couscous with tuna for dinner and settled in to watch the sunset. The full moon rose above the distant crater, illuminated by the last rays of the sun. We sat on the steps of the aljibe, awed by the beauty of the nightfall.

Day 3. Montaña Blanca - Uga

Distance 14 km, Elevation gain 520 m, Elevation loss 570 m

We opened our eyes to a glorious view from the tent. The sky was ablaze with crimson hues, as the sun prepared to rise over the ocean. The clouds mirrored its burning radiance, creating a dazzling spectacle. The island below us stirred to life, and we could see a farmer working at the nearby finca. We lingered, reluctant to leave behind such a stunning scene.

The sun finally emerged and we got ready for the day ahead. We ate tortillas with paté and drank cold water for breakfast, then packed our bags, grabbed our hiking poles, and set off. The volcanoes dominated the landscape, looming over us with their majestic presence. We marveled at how diverse they were. We paused often to admire and reflect on the panorama of craters that speckled the horizon, each one a different shade and shape. Some of the calderas were so close that we could peer into their depths.

When we reached the small village of Conil, our bottles were almost empty. There was no shop in sight, but we noticed a local woman heading to her home. We asked her to refill one of our bottles and she kindly agreed. We savored the refreshing water, it was the best we tasted on Lanzarote. Islanders avoid drinking desalinated ocean water from the tap, instead they buy bottled water that tastes much better.

After a few kilometers, the trail climbed up to a special place called “La Geria” that became the highlight of our journey. We were surrounded by a striking volcanic landscape, where the ebony-colored soil contrasted with the blue sky. We were amazed at how natural wonders and human ingenuity coexisted in harmony. The slopes and valleys were covered with vineyards, where every vine was carefully protected by a crescent-shaped low stone wall. That reminded us of the meticulous care of Japanese farmers, who wrap each growing fruit in paper. We later learned that the black gravel was a boon for the grapes because it retained the moisture they needed to thrive. As we walked, volcanic sand crunched under our feet, creating a unique sound that blended with the howling of the wind.

We ended our hike in Uga, although the GR131 continued for 16 more kilometers until Playa Blanca. For the next four days, we would explore the island from the coast, staying with hosts in Punta Mujeres and Famara. We love hiking and camping, but we also adore couchsurfing and meeting new people. Whenever we get an opportunity, we like to enjoy the best of both worlds on our trips.