Hiking and skinny dipping. Rota da Serra in Grândola, Alentejo

Distance 17 km (gpx), Elevation gain 405 m, Elevation loss 405 m

A year ago, we traded the snowy peaks for the vast ocean’s embrace. Yet, the melody of swift cascading streams and the might of roaring waterfalls in winter and spring remained etched in our hearts. The thrill of skinny dipping in the crisp months lingered in our memories as a cherished pastime.

Our longing for these experiences led us to the discovery of Ribeira de Grândola, a hidden gem nestled 80 kilometers south of our coastal abode. Anticipating the chilly caress of the river against my skin, I mapped out a 17-kilometer hike that partially followed the stream’s edge. Satellite images hinted at a smaller creek in the vicinity, a secret haven perfect for bathing.

The journey began with an 8:45 bus from Setúbal to Grândola, costing 7.75 euros, a fare higher than expected. Accustomed to our county’s affordable public transport, we were unpleasantly surprised. But Grândola, part of the Alentejo region, operated on a local bus company’s schedule with different prices. A note to fellow travelers - these buses run only on weekdays, with a smooth transfer at Alcácer do Sal.

The hike was nothing short of enchanting. We meandered through the verdant hills of Serra de Grândola, under the watchful gaze of cork oaks stretching their gnarled arms towards the sky. April adorned the meadows in a vibrant tapestry of blooming flowers. The sound of buzzing bees mixed with the tranquil murmur of water created a soothing soundtrack for our journey. We stumbled upon wild garlic, a delightful addition to our meal. It stirred memories of hiking in Swedish forests. There we also foraged for wild garlic to add a rustic touch to a hearty shakshuka we prepared for our couchsurfing host.

The trail crossed a creek, its waters rising up to our knees. A wooden bridge intended for hikers lay unnoticed upstream. This was the creek from our map boasting a deeper pool. We traced the stream to a secluded spot, its pristine waters revealing crayfish in the riverbed. The depth was perfect for a refreshing dip, offering a sensation of being enveloped by the ceaseless flow that the ocean lacks. It was a dance of eternal movement, yet a poignant reminder of transience.

The route resumed along the marked Rota da Serra, offering panoramic views of the endemic forest. We opted for a shorter loop (versão curta), allowing us to savor our ‘Luncheon on the Grass’. A leisurely break ensued, with sandwiches and warm sips of tea from our thermos. As the day waned, we made our way back to town, catching the last bus to Setúbal at 17:45.

Back home, an unwelcome souvenir from the forest was found - a tick, promptly discovered and removed. A subtle reminder of the untamed wilderness of nature.