From the lowlands of Høvåg to the top of Hovdenuten. Norway. Summer 2024

When we first started planning our hitchhiking and couchsurfing trip through southern Norway, we encountered a chorus of advice from our potential hosts. "You like hiking?" they'd say. "Head west and north!" One even remarked, "Only go south if you like boats." But time constraints and my sprained ankle led us in a different direction. We decided to take the coastal route for two weeks. Luck was on our side and we found hosts who lived just off the E18 highway, which would make hitchhiking easier (or so we thought).

Landscapes lacking towering peaks revealed a different magic. Forests, lakes and fjords held an unspoiled beauty that did not need grand summits. Water, abundant and mesmerizing, painted the canvas in shades of blue embraced by green. Wherever we stayed in Norway, nature beckoned from every doorstep.

In the tiny village of Høvåg, perched on the edge of a fjord, deer and sheep grazed on lush slopes. We walked to the tip of the peninsula, where the fjord met the sea. Islands dotted the horizon, once home to farms, now replaced by cozy summer cottages. As the sun dipped low, casting long shadows on passing boats, we enjoyed the golden hour. For us, those moments in nature were priceless; no need to climb peaks - the views were right there, etched in serenity.

However, our inner call for the mountains was heard and our couchsurfing host invited us to join him for a day hike. He wanted to see a new mountain hut that had recently opened in Hovden, and we happily jumped at the chance to get a glimpse of the famous Norwegian peaks. It took us four hours to get there, but it was worth it. The winding road was nothing short of spectacular. It followed quiet fjords and rushing rivers, caressed by emerald hills. The further we went, the more snow patches adorned the bald summits.

Our adventure continued at the trailhead in Hovden, where we parked our car and began a steep ascent to the 1119 meter peak of Hovdenuten. The path, clearly marked and easy to follow, revealed magnificent views at every twist and turn. Some sections were covered with what the locals call "Sherpa steps". As we learned from our host, the name came from Nepal, where the country's Sherpas (an ethnic group primarily from Tibet) built such stairs. For nearly two decades, these skilled artisans have been weaving natural staircases into Norway's rugged terrain, making mountaintops accessible even to novice hikers (and those with injured ankles, like me).

Norwegians say that as long as the peaks are covered with trees, they are not actually mountains. At the top of Hovdenuten, the landscape changed to flat rocks and resilient shrubs. A breathtaking 360-degree panorama unfolded: fjords and rivers cutting through valleys, snow-capped peaks filling the horizon. We could definitely say that we were standing on a real Norwegian mountain! We also had our picnic lunch in the new cabin which turned out to be surprisingly spacious and comfortable. From the outside, it seemed to blend seamlessly into the natural surroundings. Inside, the cabin was warm and cozy. It had long wooden benches, a winter-ready stove, and a huge glass wall. A perfect shelter to rest during a day hike or wait out an emergency. We spent some time chatting with other hikers before heading out into the wind to begin the descent. The way back was less steep, though with loose rocks and soggy ground at times. We returned to the car with wet feet but a sense of immense joy and accomplishment.