Hiking in Serra da Estrela. Linhares da Beira. Amiable encounters

- Do you mind if I take a picture of you?
- Not at all. Especially after you’ve asked permission!
That's how my brief conversation with a shepherd began. He seemed happy to chat and tell me a little about his life. These human interactions are the most precious moments of travel. That is why on our trips around the world we always combine walking in nature, hitchhiking and staying with locals.

That particular day was filled with pleasant encounters as the path led us to the village of Linhares da Beira. We were lucky enough to not only meet the friendly shepherd, but also talk to Maria, the owner of a cozy café, and run into a familiar face from the town where we used to live. Since we left, our friend has gotten a job in the county council and is now trying to improve the region’s tourist facilities.

Our hike, a comfortable ten-kilometer loop, gave us plenty of time to wander the labyrinth of medieval streets and explore the village. We ventured off the well-trodden path around the famous castle and other usual touristy spots, and found some hidden beauty. One such discovery was an old Jewish house, standing in the shadow of a renovated mansion, probably a former synagogue. The house had a common architecture for a judaria: two entrances - one for the shop and the other for the living quarters above. Its dilapidated state, with roof tiles scattered on the stairs and sunlight streaming through the holes, added a touch of melancholy to its charm. We didn't find the cross on its entrance, a symbol the Inquisition placed on the homes of marranos. However, we had seen many such signs in other old Jewish neighborhoods across Portugal.

Our return to Figueiró da Serra was bittersweet. We had descended along an ancient Roman road, taking in incredible 360-degree views, before our adventure was abruptly cut short. My foot got stuck in a hole in the ground and my right ankle was severely twisted. The rest of the day was pretty miserable. Neither the sweetness of the ripe, juicy cherries nor the cold water of the lake helped to ease the pain. That was it. We had to go back to town and rest. Our journey in Serra da Estrela had come to an unexpected end.