Hiking in Serra da Estrela. "Veredas e Barrocas" trail. Figueiró da Serra

The day before, we arrived at our friends' fertile farmland near the picturesque village of Figueiró da Serra. This idyllic spot is cradled within the embrace of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, a place that suffered a catastrophic fire two years ago. Since that tragic event, nature has shown its resilience and the slopes are now a vibrant tapestry of green and yellow. But blackened, charred trunks of dead trees still protrude from the lush undergrowth, their skeletal forms etched against the sky. These are stark reminders of the ferocity of the blaze, a dance of death that consumed everything in its path. Our friends who have returned to their ash-covered land have since joined forces with the local community to form an association called Veredas da Estrela. Their mission: to protect the fragile ecosystems and fortify them against future fires. The term 'veredas', known locally as 'bredas' in the Serra da Estrela region, refers to narrow trails carved into the landscape by humans and animals.

Imagine our excitement when we found out that a marked circular trail had been created along these veredas, a route that had only recently been opened for hiking enthusiasts. That day, we decided to venture out and explore this fresh 12-kilometer path. With the sun still low in the sky we descended into the village and walked through a maze of cobbled streets to an old communal wash house. The water there was frothy with soap: someone had already done their morning laundry. Leaving the village, the trail led us deep into the valley where we came across the roofless ruins of a textile factory. Now abandoned, it had been reclaimed by nature, its barren structure entangled with roots and branches.

Before we reached the factory, we were greeted by a gentle murmur of a brook. Little did we know that our hike would be a tribute to water. Winter had just given way to spring, and the streams that dry up in summer were still full. Their symphonic melody would accompany us throughout the journey. From then on, we would marvel at the power and tenacity of water at almost every turn.

We climbed down to Ribeira do Freixo and decided it was the perfect moment for a refreshing skinny-dip. Scrambling over the boulders that dotted the shoreline, we noticed a pool deep enough for our aquatic escapade. It took me a good twenty minutes of acclimatization, in and out of the water, before my feet stopped cramping from the cold. When we lived on the other side of the mountain ridge, I used to bathe regularly in the streams, even in the middle of winter. This water, however, was different, its icy touch far colder than I had expected. But I plucked up courage, took a frosty leap of faith and managed a brief swim in the stream. The sensation was exhilarating as always. I quickly dried off in the sun, sat down on a patch of warm, soft moss and watched the water striders glide effortlessly across the surface.

We crossed a bridge and followed a narrow, winding path uphill. Soon we descended into the cool, welcoming embrace of a forest. The trail meandered along a tranquil stream, its gentle burbling a soothing soundtrack to our adventure. As we walked on, the roaring sound of the waterfall reached our ears. We approached it and paused for a moment to admire the raw strength and mesmerizing beauty of this natural spectacle. The path then guided us up again, displaying panoramic views of olive groves and vineyards on agricultural terraces. We entered the empty streets of Freixo da Serra and were greeted by the figure of a Portuguese immigrant looking down at us from a monument. Historically, many locals leave the area in search of a better life in France, Switzerland and elsewhere. Many of the villages only come alive during the holiday season, when you can hear more French than Portuguese in the streets. That afternoon they were completely silent. We gratefully replenished our water bottle from a local fountain as the day grew unexpectedly warm and resumed our walk.

After a short stretch on a tarmac road, we found ourselves next to a levada. This irrigation channel, typically built to carry water from higher altitudes to the fields below, was a familiar sight. It brought back memories of Madeira, where we had hiked along many such levadas, each one a symbol of the balance between human existence and nature. We traced the course of the channel until it led us to a steep descent into the valley. There, we discovered the ruins of ancient watermills, a reminder of how humans have harnessed the power of nature for survival. Standing near these silent structures, one could almost hear the echo of the grinding wheels, their rhythm intertwined with the rush of the water. Our path led us once again to the familiar Ribeira do Freixo. We crossed it, hopping from stone to stone, and climbed further up. This ascent revealed yet another stream, its waters cascading down in an enchanting waterfall. We couldn’t resist taking a break in this serene spot, immersed in the melody of the stream as it made its way through the hills.

From there, we began our ascent along a dirt track, aiming for the hike’s highest point at 951 meters. That stretch was the most exposed and challenging part of the trail, with little shade to shield us from the scorching sun. However, the magnificent vistas over Serra da Estrela and the medieval village of Linhares da Beira, nestled in the mountains, made every drop of sweat worthwhile. The whole time we could hear the comforting murmur of invisible streams. Our path then wound its way down into a gorge, a journey that tested our navigation skills as we lost sight of the trail several times. Whenever the markings were hard to find, we consulted the gpx track on the offline map. As we finally descended into the valley and crossed the creeks, we saw the metal chains that are useful for climbing, and it dawned on us that we had been going in the wrong direction, counterclockwise. But the beauty of a circular route is that it always leads back to the starting point.

Our journey then took us into a chestnut forest of the Veredas da Estrela association, a testament to the community’s efforts to restore the area after the devastating fire of 2022. From there we walked to the irrigation lakes and took a well-deserved break in the shade of pine trees that had miraculously survived the fire. Despite their charred trunks, they stood tall, their branches sprouting with green needles and young cones.

As we neared the end of our hike, we passed by a site known as Penedos dos Mouros, whose history dates back to the Copper and Bronze Ages. To be honest, we struggled to discern any ancient features, but we did notice signs of more recent exploration on the granites, the very same stones used to construct the typical houses in the Beiras region. Those silent boulders, constantly exposed to the elements, have undoubtedly witnessed countless chapters of human history.

Tired but satisfied, we returned to the village of Figueiró da Serra. This route, with its diverse landscapes and abundant water sources, has earned a special place in our collection of hikes. It’s a journey that’s as varied as it is exciting, providing just the right amount of challenge despite its relatively short distance. It’s an experience that offers a unique blend of adventure and tranquility, inviting you to appreciate the beauty of nature and human ingenuity.