A day in Porto Novo. The gateway to Santo Antão. Spring 2025

Mindelo stirred to life when we left our accommodation and walked to the port. Two days earlier, we'd bought a return ferry ticket to Santo Antão for 3,000 escudos. Now, as we boarded the 8am ferry, we felt the anticipation of reaching the westernmost point of Cabo Verde and the furthest from the African continent. The ferry's three decks—two open, one enclosed—offered flexibility; we stayed on top, absorbing the views of São Vicente, Santo Antão, and the sharp Ilhéu dos Pássaros in between. This black volcanic outcrop hosts a lone lighthouse, its white staircase winding up the rock face like a zipper. The crossing proved to be comfortable despite some mild swell that made us a little queasy. Fifty minutes later, we docked in Porto Novo's harbor, greeted by the island's mountainous silhouette.

In stark contrast to Mindelo, Porto Novo appeared quiet and safe. It had a village feel compared to the bustling capital of São Vicente. As we walked along the shore to our guesthouse, we passed fishermen repairing their nets on the sand. Like their counterparts on other islands, they were complaining about the windy weather and a poor catch. When they found out we'd just arrived from São Vicente, one of them commented, "Mindelo é desenvolvido mas muita máfia e droga! Aqui é tranquilo," as if to confirm our first impression. Santo Antão seemed like the end of the world, and in a way, it was.

The environment encouraged a slow, relaxed pace. Our visit to the municipal market revealed an unexpected scene: most of the stalls were empty, even the ATM was out of cash. However, we did find a street vendor selling papayas for 140 escudos per kilo and tomatoes for 120—prices significantly cheaper than in Mindelo. Since our guesthouse did not have a kitchen for guests, we had to find a place in town that served almoço. It turned out to be quite a quest because the locals don't usually eat out. Finally, we discovered Altas Horas, the only café in the center that had a prato do dia. For 400 escudos we could choose between three dishes. We opted for roasted chicken and grilled fish, both served with boiled vegetables - potatoes, carrots, sweet potatoes and bananas. The food was fresh and well prepared.

In the evening, I took a leisurely stroll along the marina to observe the rhythm of daily life. Children were playing volleyball on the beach, joggers were out for a run, and fishermen were still repairing their nets. As I walked, I came across a poem engraved at the base of a monument honoring the women of Cabo Verde. It read: "E para que seja sempre lembrada neste pedaço de chão e rocha. Esta nobre figura por nós amada: A mulher das terras de Cabo Verde".

Inspired by these words, I decided to explore the town and capture portraits of women, if they agreed. Women in Cabo Verde are everywhere: on the streets, in the markets, in shops and offices. Yet, many are shy and reserved. Approaching them with respect and kindness opened doors to moments of genuine human connection—smiles, sparkling eyes, and shared stories. The joyful enthusiasm of one woman stood out; when I asked if I could take a photo of her, she beamed and said, "Yes, yes, please! Look how beautiful I am in this dress."