Hike from Cova crater to Cidade das Pombas, Santo Antão. Cabo Verde. Spring 2025

That morning we set out on our first proper hike on Santo Antão. We took the earliest colectivo from Porto Novo to Cova Crater, scheduled to leave at 9:30 a.m. after the second ferry from São Vicente. The minibus departed on time, but the ride was anything but direct—with stops to refuel, buy water, and deliver packages, plus the winding mountain road, we didn't reach the crater until almost 11. The trip cost us three hundred per person, although we suspected this was the tourist rate, as the locals seemed to pay only two hundred escudos.

We began the hike by stepping into the clouds at the edge of the crater. A penetrating chill and a sharp wind greeted us—a stark contrast to the warm sun on the coast. The mist swirled around us like a damp woolen shawl, wrapping us in its cool embrace. Hungry from the journey, we paused for a small picnic, using a volcanic rock as a makeshift table. Suddenly, a tall man, his head slightly bowed, emerged from the fog, leading his donkey through the maze of dirt paths that crisscrossed the slope. Just as quietly, they disappeared into the cloud. Inside the caldera, farmers tended their fields while cows grazed on the lush land. Cabbage, potatoes, carrots, leeks, and even orange trees filled the patchwork of plots at the bottom of this fertile bowl.

From there, the trail descended in a steady zigzag to the village of Chã de Padre. The continuous downhill was tough on the knees, but the views of the Paúl valley were magnificent and made every step worthwhile. Rugged peaks surrounded the verdant emerald valley, each slope carved into terraces. Thanks to the unique climate, papayas, bananas, breadfruit, and coconuts flourish there. Gardens thrive also in the riverbeds, which hold enough water even five months into the dry season. Every drop of rain and condensation is carefully collected to feed the volcanic soil.

We stopped for lunch at O Curral, a restaurant run by Europeans, recommended by fellow travelers. It mainly served tourists, and the food was unremarkable. Though we usually prefer to support local businesses, our legs were already trembling from the hike, so we didn’t search further. Later, we bought ripe bananas from a local woman for 180 escudos a bunch. She kindly gave us extra, along with a homemade coconut sweet.

By the time we reached the coast in Cidade das Pombas around 5 p.m., we had been walking for six hours. Looking back, the day was a blend of misty heights and sweeping valley views, with local life woven into the volcanic landscape. If we had to sum it up: we began by hugging the clouds and ended by listening to the waves.