Posts

Hike from Setúbal to Serra do Louro. Trilho dos Moinhos. Portugal

Image
Distance 22.5 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 448 m, Elevation loss 448 m Like the last time , this hike started with the old Roman road. Calçada Romana will probably be the gateway to our weekly nature getaways from Setúbal. We crossed the EN10 road from Grelhal, turned left and stopped at the gate with a formidable warning ”Private property. Keep out". That Saturday we were not the only ones wanting to get in. There were workers with a huge truck waiting for a machine to level the dirt road. You can enter, no problem, they nodded at us. It turned out the gate was not locked, and soon we found ourselves between pine trees following a trail up to the chapel. We quickly realized it was Via Crucis because every turn was marked by a cross with a station number. Now please bear with me while I briefly explain the currently sad state of hiking in Setúbal. As you may know, the city borders the natural park of Arrábida. If you look at the map, the green area to the west is criss-crossed wit...

Hike from Setúbal to São Luís peak. Subida da Vigia. Portugal

Image
Distance 11 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 492 m, Elevation loss 492 m The Roman road, now called Via Antiga do Viso, used to connect Olissipo (Lisbon) to Cetóbriga (Setúbal). From here the calçada romana continued to Ébora (Évora) heading to the important city of Emérita Augusta (Mérida, in Spain). Our hike to São Luís from Setúbal began with a 300-meter stroll down smooth rocks where horses used to pull wooden chariots 2000 years ago. Spring had already arrived, and tiny wild iris flowers sprinkled violet color between the stones. We crossed to the other side of the EN10 national road, turned left just before the BP gas station and hiked up to what seemed to be an abandoned mine. There you can freely enter the gate and follow the dirt path called Subida da Vigia all the way to the top of the hill (altitude 392 meters). The ascent is quite pleasant and gentle. The higher you get, every turn opens up clear views of Serra do Louro in Palmela or the sandbank of Troia. A scent of blosso...

Necrópole de São Gens. Celorico da Beira. Portugal

Image
This is a place where natural and human history are intertwined in an eternal embrace. Where sculptures carved by wind and rain find reflection in ancient sepultures filled with water. The Romans built an albergue nearby for weary travelers, its mosaics still covered with sand. Parts of an old road remain until today, paved with smooth stones where wooden chariots left deep tracks of time. A huge granite stone magically balances on a flat rock. The locals call it Pedra do Sino — the bell opening towards the sky. If it ever rings, the sound will burst out with a scream of the earth. To me it looks more like a flower that never fades away. Medieval tombs are scattered around mossy boulders. Contemplating the necropolis, I would rather call it peaceful than beautiful. For centuries people came here to bury their loved ones. Nameless graves are a symbol of departing and memory. The memory for everyone we lost in life. It's the place where I find silence and strength.

Hiking the GR221 on Mallorca. From Valdemossa to Pollença

Image
GR221, also known as La Ruta de Pedra en Sec (The Dry Stone Route) winds through the mountains of the Tramuntana ridge on Mallorca. That name comes from the various ancient walls you will encounter on your way which were traditionally built without any cement to bind the stones together. Actually, I would say, you might not even notice the walls due to the amount of rocks you will find under your feet. The route justifies its name on almost every meter of its entire length. It's extremely dry, at least in autumn, so you need to carry a lot of water. Most of the time you will step on stones of different sizes and shapes which will slip, roll and wobble under your hiking boots. So walking poles will save your life on GR221 or, being less dramatic, at least your knees. We walked from Valdemossa to Pollença at the end of October. Total elevation gain was 3830 m, elevation loss 4127 m, distance 80 km. Here's our itinerary. Day 1. Palma de Mallorca Our evening flight from Porto ...

São Jacinto. Two days in Aveiro. September 2022. Portugal

Image
Сан-Жасинту. Два дня в Авейру. Сентябрь 2022 Когда мы подплывали к полуострову Сан-Жасинту, я заметила лодку, за которой свисал длинный прут, уходящий глубоко в воду. Потом уже с пристани увидела вдали у волнореза людей, собирающих что-то на отмели. Они как будто водили по дну металлическими сачками. Подойти ближе не было времени, ведь мы прибыли на Сан-Жасинту всего на один день. Так и не поняв, за какими морскими тварями идет охота, мы отправились на другой берег бродить по пляжу. Разгадка ждала нас через много часов пути по барханам и сосновому бору. Мы прошли босиком несколько километров, утопая в песке и оставляя следы на морщинистых дюнах. Широкая пустынная полоса между океаном и лесом — пространство безмерного неисчерпаемого счастья. В соленой дымке твое движение превращается в танец на мягком песке под нежный напев волн. Возвращались мы по тропинке через заповедник — ласковый теплый звенящий лес. Всю дорогу нас сопровождал рокот волн, а запах океана смешивался с аромато...