Collecting Moments

Distance 22 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 312 m, Elevation loss 190 m On that hike we found ourselves drowning in a sea of soft sand and wading through a maze of sharp reeds. Yet, we managed to catch the last bus home from a distant cape as the sun began to set. Here’s a recount of that exhausting but rewarding day. In my ongoing quest for hidden natural swimming spots around Setúbal, I was captivated by the sight of two lakes on the map, situated to the north-west of town: Lagoa Pequena and Lagoa de Albufeira . With a quick investigation into public transport, I discovered an accessible route: a morning train to Coina, followed by bus #3540 to the Observatório das Aves . From there, I charted a 22-km hike to Cabo Espichel (the southwestern corner of the Setúbal peninsula), a journey that was supposed to follow the marked E9 route (or so I believed). As we rode the bus, a wave of concern swept over me. The endless fences lining the road seemed to suggest that our exploration of na...

Distance 17 km (gpx) , Elevation gain 405 m, Elevation loss 405 m A year ago, we traded the snowy peaks for the vast ocean’s embrace. Yet, the melody of swift cascading streams and the might of roaring waterfalls in winter and spring remained etched in our hearts. The thrill of skinny dipping in the crisp months lingered in our memories as a cherished pastime. Our longing for these experiences led us to the discovery of Ribeira de Grândola , a hidden gem nestled 80 kilometers south of our coastal abode. Anticipating the chilly caress of the river against my skin, I mapped out a 17-kilometer hike that partially followed the stream’s edge. Satellite images hinted at a smaller creek in the vicinity, a secret haven perfect for bathing. The journey began with an 8:45 bus from Setúbal to Grândola, costing 7.75 euros, a fare higher than expected. Accustomed to our county’s affordable public transport, we were unpleasantly surprised. But Grândola, part of the Alentejo region, operated ...

We woke up in a sleepy fishing village on the north-east coast of Lanzarote. Our couchsurfing host had kindly offered us a cozy room in his house in Punta Mujeres. We thanked him for his hospitality and packed our bags. Our destination for the day was Famara, a surfers' paradise on the opposite side of the island. There we had found a host on Trustroots, a hospitality exchange website that reminded us of the old days of couchsurfing, when it was more about community than business. As we always do, we chose our favorite means of transportation - hitchhiking . It's not only faster sometimes than public transport, but also more adventurous. You never know how your day will unfold, who you'll meet on the road and what stories you'll get out of the experience. Our first ride was with a familiar face. We had seen that guy the day before in the harbor, walking his white fluffy dog. She was so popular among the kids in town, we could tell her owner was a kind person. He was ...

Day 1. Orzola - Ermita de las Nieves Distance 18 km, Elevation gain 900 m, Elevation loss 300 m, Camping spot 29°06′23.59″N, 13°31′41.26″W The morning weather forecast warned us of a fierce wind that would soon sweep the island. Gusts up to 70 km/hr. We didn't hesitate. We packed our bags and set off from Orzola around 8:30. The weather was still ideal for hiking, with a cool haze that softened the sun. We walked along the road, marveled by the contrast between the dormant volcanoes and the restless ocean. We soon left the asphalt behind and entered the trails that wound between the elegant wineries and the modest orchards in the black soil. We felt the presence of the mighty Corona volcano and her smaller kin, our silent guardians. The air was arid like in the desert but tinged with salt. We reached Haria and took a short break. We refilled our bottles with tap water in the Centro Cultural and chilled under the shade of the towering trees in the boulevard. (Side note: we brou...

We began our Lanzarote adventure in Orzola, a charming village on the island’s northernmost point. When we arrived, its whitewashed houses, kissed by the ocean’s salty spray, sparkled in the fading light. Orzola was once a humble fishing village, but now it attracts visitors who come to board a ferry to the nearby island of Graciosa. Also, the GR131 hiking trail starts here, which was the reason why we decided to stay in Orzola. Despite the windy and gray weather the next day, we woke up early and headed out to chase the sunrise from the eastern shore. We were rewarded with a spectacular sight. The sun emerged from behind the clouds, smiling at us with a warm glow. We saw it as a sign of the successful journey we would embark on in a couple of days. Before we set off on our hike, however, we had to meet our legendary nomad friend Simon and his faithful dog Paddy. Simon had been a globetrotter for most of his life. In the seventies, he hopped on a hippy bus from London to India - and...